Expert Q&A
We spoke with our expert René Pisati, R&I Technical Specialist in Make-Up, to uncover the key challenges and innovations in integrating UV filters into makeup.
What are the main formulation challenges when integrating photoprotection into makeup products?
A key challenge is ensuring that the UV filters are correctly dispersed to avoid stability issues such as precipitation. High levels of UV filters can lead to a sticky feel or a whitening effect on the skin, which are common concerns in sun care products. These effects can be particularly noticeable in makeup and may reduce sensorial appeal. Additionally, when aiming for high SPF values, the space available for other ingredients, such as sensorial enhancers or active compounds, becomes limited, which can compromise the overall balance of the formulation.
Which formats (e.g., foundations, lipstick, powder, blush...) are best suited for combining coverage and UV protection?
In principle, UV protection can be incorporated into all types of makeup formats, from foundations and lipsticks to powders and blushes. With the right formulation strategy, it’s possible to combine effective sun protection with good coverage and aesthetics. The choice of format will depend on the type of UV filter used, the expected SPF level, and the desired sensorial result.
How can formulators mitigate undesired effects in the formulation and onto the skin?
To avoid precipitation or heaviness, it’s essential to work with medium phases that can properly solubilize the UV filters. For mineral filters, using a three-roll mill during pre-mixing helps achieve a smooth, homogeneous dispersion. This process improves both the stability and the texture of the final product, making it lighter and more pleasant to apply.